Manas National Park in Assam is home to among the most beautiful and last remaining natural tropical evergreen forests in India. It is home to the Asian Elephant, the Royal Bengal tiger and the Great Indian Rhinoceros.
The Manas river, from where the National park takes its name, originates from Bhutan and enters Assam to merge with the wilful Brahmaputra. It crisscrosses the thick vegetation that is home to a variety of flora and fauna. The Manas National Park spread across the borders of India and Bhutan had been affected by heavy poaching and logging until recently. It had been woefully described as being ‘A Heritage in Danger’. Thankfully, this is a tale of the past. Conservation efforts adopted in the past decade have changed the Jungle’s fortunes.
What is remarkable about the park, however, is that the conservation efforts have mostly been adopted and undertaken by people with a chequered past from local communities.
This serene and tranquil land had witnessed militancy and violent aggression for over 6 decades. It was only with the establishment of the Bodo Territorial Region in 2003 that some semblance of normalcy returned.
Despite the Bodo Accord being signed, there was a long way to go. Community development and livelihood creation were essential. With this in mind, the Manas Maozigendri Ecotourism Society was born. They initiated a small but quiet movement. They began working with poachers to train them to become the guardians and protectors of Manas National Park. The nature-loving Bodos started working towards conserving of the Manas National Park.
Today, the eastern range of the Manas National Park is home to poachers turned protectors who patrol the forest and help conserve it.
During my week-long trip to Assam, I was privileged to meet the members of the Manas Maozigendri Ecotourism Society (MMES)who spearheaded the conservation work.
Meeting our Bravehearts: Poachers turned Protectors
After a two hour long drive from Barangbari, the other end of Manas National Park, my co-bloggers and I reached Manas Maozigendri Ecotourism Society’s centre. Savouring tekeli pitha, a local delicacy made of rice flour, jaggery and sesame seeds, biscuits and lal cha, we sat down for a conversation.
My eyes were immediately drawn to Mr. Buddhiswar Boro. My long stare prompted him to say with a smile, “Yes, it’s not there” and before I could apologize for my rudeness he waved me off. He shared, “I started hunting when I was 14 years old. Nobody told me it was wrong. We had a free hand in the forest and I was very successful in hunting. With our guns, we felt invincible. Until of course, a wild boar attacked me and I was grievously injured. I lost my arm and my livelihood.”
Mr. Hemanto Basumatary added, “I must have killed at least 50 elephants. Their tusks were valuable and sold for as much as Rs. 3000 per kilo. I was given contracts from Indians and foreigners to go on week-long expeditions. I, too, was usually successful.”
“People ask me am I ashamed that I was responsible for the death of so many animals? Yes, of course, I am but they should realize that Bodoland at that time was going through a struggle. We did not have money to eat. We did whatever we could to survive. Today, I am proud to protect the forest instead of harming it.”
Everybody spoke matter of factly; their words betrayed no emotions. But as they started speaking about the conservation efforts, their faces beamed with pride.
How Manas Maozigendri Ecotourism Society’s centre brought about change?
Awareness campaigns and door to door visits; community meetings and working with the families was key to their success. With limited resources in hand, they managed to convince poachers to give their weapons up.
Our bravehearts knew the forest; it was their second home. They were instrumental in carrying out detailed surveys, creating maps and planning the eco-tourism initiatives. They were responsible for patrolling and keeping unscrupulous people away from Manas National Park.
“What was more profitable? Poaching or conservation”, someone asked.
“When we were poaching, we were endangering the environment, harming animals and earning money. Today, we may earn less but at least we have dignity and peace of mind. We are creating a better world for ourselves and our children.”, came the response.
Manas National Park: Then and Now
Manas National Park which had a declining rhino and elephant population was commended for its efforts in conservation in 2011. According to the World Conservation Monitoring Centre, Manas National Park protects 22 scheduled species of flora and fauna. It is a national park, a UNESCO Natural World Heritage Site, a Project Tiger reserve, an elephant reserve and a biosphere reserve in Assam. In the Tiger Census of 2017, Manas National Park had doubled its population and had at least 30 tigers.
With its initial efforts being successful, MMES started expanding its work. Today, MMES has over 11 protection camps. Infrastructure development was important to ensure conservation. MMES started working with the government to build a network of roads.
MMES protects 250 sq. km. of the forest from poachers and loggers. It has helped rehabilitate many poachers and is paying them a fixed salary to protect the forests
Living in the periphery of the forest is not easy. There have been instances of elephant herds going wild and destroying property and crops. MMES also works with these people to help them rebuild their lives.
A delicate balance has to be maintained between the quest for livelihood and conservation. The Bodos are perhaps the best suited to manage this balance. The community came together to start the Manas Maozigendri Jungle Camp. The project employees 31 locals for the ecotourism project.
The work undertaken by the MMES is extraordinary. With their efforts and advocacy, poachers laid down their guns to become protectors, the local community rallied behind them and the government supported their initiative.
The feeling of fulfillment and joy was evident as we spoke to Mr. Kalen, Mr. Rustom, Mr. Pranjit and others about their work. Community-led efforts to protect natural resources is essential and has been recognized by the Constitution of India in the Forest Rights Act 2006. This has been adopted remarkably well by Manas Maozigendri Ecotourism Society to transform the National Park and the lives of those are dependent on it.
Ye changes to bahut acche hain ??
Mushkil to hai per unko apni galti ka ehsaas hai aur ab wo usi environment ki care bhi kar rahy hain ?
Plz kuch aur khubsurti dikhaiye ?? aapne wahan kitne din spend kiye n kya kya dekha n khaya ?
That’s incredible! I do hope the protection CONTINUES to grow!!! 🙂
First of all the scenery is just gorgeous! This was an eye opening post for me. I hope it continues this way! Good for you 🙂
Wow from poaching to protecting! That’s incredible! Sounds like an adventure
I always love hearing a change of heart story. It is great that they are protecting it.
These men are so amazing and brave! They do such important work.
I love love love this….the fact that they reached out to the poachers and educated them to become the protectors is awesome
Great men and it’s really good you decided to mention them for their braveness!
Wow that is quite a turnaround. I hope it continues to thrive with the protectors committed to protecting.
Enjoyed this post. They are truly heroes. Thanks for sharing 🙂
I have been there. It’s so beautiful. Thank you for sharing about these people. They are doing great work. And yes, spreading awareness so that no more destruction happens.
Thanks for sharing this informative post and spreading awareness about this critical issue. We all have a part to play to protect our earth!
They did an awesome job for the elephants and rhino , we need more places like this.
Glad to know that now they are protecting it! Thanks to you for raising awareness about it! It is important for us to raise ethical ecotourism!
Wow, such a nice and very inspiring article to read. I am glad that they learned to protect their land instead of harming it and it is so nice that they are also bringing awareness in their community.
It was so good of you to mention their bravery. These men are so great, god blessed them.
I have never been there but it sounds like a nice destination getaway during summer with the kids.
Oh wow! I’m not sure I could ever leave that place. it is absolutely one of the most gorgeous place I’ve ever seen.
This is incredible! I am really hoping that protection will only gain more support and continue to expand!
Oh wow what a stunning place this is! Great to hear they are protecting it, and rightly so!
I recently saw a documentary on this subject and it really moved me. Kudos to these brave men.
Waao..these are some really great efforts put together to converve the park…your post has actually left me with a thought of visit this place once and be close nature..
I was at Kaziranga in March this year, and I was supposed to stop by Manas National Park to see the rescued elephants, but it didn’t work out. I hope to visit it some time.
Kudos to the conservation heroes and their amazing journey from poachers to protectors.
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It shows the true grit and determination of the these people and how their efforts would help in protecting our ecosystem.
Nice reading about this lovely looking place and your exhaustive guide. I would love to visit Manas NP.
Wow, what an inspiring story! And one can only imagine the poachers had to do to survive then but it’s admirable that they’ve turned around and became animal protectors now.
This national park look amazing and incredible too. I would love to visit this park too. Added to our overflowing bucket list. And good to know that now they are protecting forest instead of destroying
This is superb!! More power to them. Hope your post inspire others too.
The experience was really very interesting especially the national park, the eco tourism society an unforgettable experience must say.
Never been to any national park..this post made me curious to visit it soon.
That is something amazing! Hunters turned protectors, wow! Loved reading about this!
This is beautiful and amazing! Thank you some much for sharing. I’m glad the area has improved.